Macet!

Jakarta is often characterised by its hellish traffic - it's definitely ranking in the top three worst cities in the world (currently beaten by Mexico City I believe, but it's working on it). I've often been regaled with tales of five hour trips to the airport, 90 minute excursions to the restaurant 2km away and the imminent threat of complete gridlock. Given this, my expectations were pretty low, and granted, we haven't ventured out all that much, but I've been a bit surprised to find that while certainly irritating, it isn't as terrifyingly awful as I had imagined. Yet.

Motorcycles are everywhere, their nickname of "mosquitoes" very apt as they duck and dive through the cars like gnats, most with passenger perched on pillion, some with entire families, kids sandwiched between mum & dad. Others carry cargo - multiple trays of eggs, large boxes or ?? balanced on the back. Traffic flows slowly, or not at all. Main roads are multi-lane, but observance is cursory at best - cars just move wherever there are gaps and nose in where there aren't. Smaller roads spontaneously change from two-way to one way according to vehicle density and intersections and or driveways often have a traffic "dude" who heads into the fray, whistle blowing, to allow cars to exit or turn.

Pedestrians need a certain level of bloody-minded optimism in order to get anywhere as stepping into the road and assuming everyone will either stop or avoid you is the only way to make progress. As this method is widely employed, it is generally successful although it is rather disconcerting to see young children darting across busy streets with only an outstretched hand for protection.

Venturing out requires a certain degree of preparation combined with modest goals, as trips inevitably take significantly longer than expected. With a baby and preschooler in tow this means a good supply of food, drink and entertainment and some careful timing in order to avoid prolonged screaming bouts when a ten minute drive turns into an hour long ordeal. Our first experience of this left me vowing never to leave the hotel again (something I acknowledge is somewhat impractical). I'm pretty sure the driver must have been wondering why I didn't just pick up the baby and feed him (car seats being rather uncommon here)!

Since avoiding driving (or more accurately, being driven) around for three years seems infeasible I guess I will need to develop strategies for dealing with Jakarta's traffic jams (or macet) without losing what little cool it is possible to maintain in the heat.